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MANILA -- Walking into Kenshin is like being transported into an izakaya in the backroads of a Japanese metropolitan city. Besides the “sumimasens” that greet diners, the sight of sake barrels, sake bottles and Japanese pop art mixed in with custom-made Japanese furniture greet guests as they enter.

The restaurant was conceptualized in mid-2016 by Ayi Beech and his Japanese partner. Coy about the restaurant being named after a popular anime swordsman, Beech, who is Kenshin's restaurant manager, offers this explanation on the name’s origin instead: “We have some good Japanese restaurants. But if you ask people where they ate last night, they cannot remember the names because they are so long. Kenshin is short so it’s easy to remember.”

Besides being relatively affordable, servings are generous when compared to similar restaurants in the same price range.

For instance, take the gyoza. Served on a cast-iron skillet, these aren’t the usual little dumplings one would come to expect from a typical Japanese restaurant. These are large pieces thoughtfully placed on top of shredded cabbage to absorb excess oil. The slaw makes for tasty eats after finishing off the gyoza.

Japanese favorites and staples like sushi, donburi, ramen, katsu and tempura are all here. Kenshin is no slouch with sushi and sashimi. The Funa Mori Sashimi is affordable at P499.

Unique takes on maki like the torched aburi chashu maki with cream cheese and cucumber are featured alongside old favorites like the California maki.

There are some different but interesting choices on what goes on the dish. For example, chicken teriyaki is paired with tartar sauce, which may seem unusual but it works.

The karaage, meanwhile, is served on top of fried pancit canton-like noodles that serve as a platform for oil and fat to drip out of. The noodles with the drippings are nice to snack on afterwards.

It’s not only about the food but the experience. The “make-your-own” takoyaki is a big draw for repeat customers. Everything you need to make 16 pieces of takoyaki from the burner, the cast-iron takoyaki tray, ingredients and toppings are at your disposal.

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While the waitstaff can prepare these in front of you during off-peak hours, it’s much more fun to do it yourself choosing what goes into your takoyaki.

Another dish worth mentioning is the taki-niku nabe. It comes as huge bowl of steaming hot broth with a rim of shredded cabbage wrapped in bacon-thin sukiyaki beef.

Diners dunk the cabbage and beef into the broth then dip them into sauces. It makes a complete meal even without rice.

Do not miss the desserts at Kenshin. There’s ice cream and coffee jelly but for a taste of something Japanese, check out the Matcha Anmitsu. This is served in two lacquer boxes, one with a scoop of matcha ice cream, the other with fruit cocktail, mochi and sweet azuki beans. Putting everything in one bite is refreshingly exotic.

Besides food, Kenshin features a well-provisioned bar that serves soju- and sake-based cocktails. It serves Japanese-inspired cocktails with sake as the mixer of choice. Some drinks are takes on familiar bar staples like the mojito which uses sake instead of rum.

There’s also an array of cocktails with sake mixed in with juice and iced tea. For an ice cold drink, try out the Sake Smoothie and the Matcha Kahlua Smoothie.

Personally, this is a restaurant I keep coming back to. It’s not only because it’s very near us but because of value for money. The food may skirt being authentic sometimes, but the flavors are comfortable and safe for diners who aren’t that adventurous while still having something to offer for those looking for more exotic Japanese dishes.

Beech said they have ambitious plans for Kenshin with a mall branch being the first of many. Chances are you’ll find a Kenshin near you soon.

Kenshin Izakaya can be found at the G/F of The Linear on Mayapis St., Makati and at the G/F of The Beacon on Arnaiz Avenue, Avenue. Restaurant hours are from 10:30 a.m. to 3 a.m. It also has a branch at Vista Mall in Las Pinas.