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Pampanga is known as a culinary destination in the Philippines. The Kapampangans developed their own style of cooking, and their culinary expertise are passed on from one generation to the next. Among the Kapampangan chefs who have made a name for themselves is Lillian Lising-Borromeo.

Fondly called Atching Lillian — “Atching” being derived from the Chinese term “atsi” for elder sister — the 78-year-old food historian is celebrated as one of the pillars of the Kapampangan cuisine.

Borromeo began her journey in the kitchen at the young age of four. She recalls that instead of playing with toys or dolls, she would sit beside her grandmother and learn to cook. Having been part of a family of cooks, it was expected of Borromeo to eventually man the kitchen.

Borromeo is most known for her Panecillos de San Nicolas, which are furnace-baked buttery cookies that are believed to have healing powers.

It can be said that one of Borromeo’s greatest culinary passions is the preservation of Kapampangan heirloom dishes. In 2012, she founded “Kusinero't Kusinerang Kapampangan”, a non-profit organization that advocates for the promotion of Pampanga’s classic recipes.

Because of her love for the local cuisine, Borromeo was able to include Kapampangan dishes in menus of restaurants that normally offer international servings.

“Sa mga hotel, noong panahon namin, puro international, walang Kapampangan. So I told myself we should be represented in these establishments to show what we have to offer. Sabi ko sa loob ko, kailangan magkaroon ng sariling atin,” she said.

To this day, Borromeo teaches the younger generation the methods and recipes that are Pampanga’s own.

“Importanteng mayroong isang alamat na magdidiskubre o magtatago sa lahat ng mga bagay-bagay na dapat malaman ng mga generations to come,” she said.

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