MANILA -- There is more to The Fireplace at the New World Manila Bay hotel than just premium steaks.

Under the helm of new executive chef James Williams, the high-end steak house takes a more relaxed approach. While it still serves exceptional cuts of meat cooked in its prized Beech wood-fired oven, the beautifully appointed restaurant now offers dishes with some Pacific Rim cuisine flair.

“We just wanted to make it more approachable. The menu they had in place had been here for a long time. And it’s time for something a bit more modern, appreciate local ingredients, and use them as much as possible,” Williams said of the new concept.

While the restaurant still looks as impressive as ever with its stone walls and brass accented decor, not to mention an impressive wall of wines, generally speaking, The Fireplace feels laid back.

“We’re looking to attract more locals, foodies, and families that want to enjoy a meal, not only for a birthday, or a special occasion. You can afford to come once a week, not once a month,” said Williams.

As expected from a top-rate steak house, the most popular cuts on the menu are the Wagyu ribeye, roastbeef/rump, tenderloin, and porterhouse. However, it has now included hanging tender and the flatiron steak cuts -- part of the update Williams promised.

These two cuts are more inexpensive but does not in any way scrimp on flavor. The hanger steak, for example, is also called the "butcher’s steak" because a lot of butchers love it so much that they keep it for themselves instead of selling it. The flatiron steak, meanwhile, is a cut prized for its marbling and is always a favorite for grilling with its even thickness.

The meats will be expertly cooked as per the guest's doneness request (medium to medium rare would be recommended). Customers will get steak that’s tender and flavorful, with the wood from the ipil-ipil adding that little bit of smoked flavor.

Each steak is sauced with café de Paris butter (butter, herbs, mustard, etc), and comes with roasted bone marrow and shaved foie gras, which seemingly melts into the meat, adding an additional layer of lusciousness.

Big groups can order the giant Tomahawk steak. At about 1.2 kgs per order, it’s bone-in, dry-aged meat with a marbling score of 5, and a magnificent feast for meat lovers.

PACIFIC RIM CUISINE

Another aspect to William's modern approach includes the use of Filipino local ingredients in its menu. The chef classifies this as Pacific Rim cuisine. “So it’s European food with Asian influences,” he explained.

Ifugao rice is an example. Williams makes an aggressively sauced squid ink risotto using the more nutty flavored Ifugao rice and squid ink. Another would be the Tomato and Salad Burata, which uses local burata and local heirloom tomatoes.

The Confit Belly Pork sounds as European as they come, but what it is though is essentially a surf and turf dish with pork belly done in almost lechon kawali-style, with seared scallops for contrast, and some lemon curd for acidity.

The bestseller Hot Smoked Salmon has salmon that just melts in your mouth. You almost don’t need its accompanying sauce of squid ink mayonnaise with fried calamari.

LIGHT DESSERTS

“It used to be large and heavy, but we’re doing it lighter,” Williams of The Fireplace's desserts.

The White Chocolate Meringue and Strawberry fits that bill -- artistically plated and ideally shared by those wanting to cleanse their palate. It features little meringue kisses, tart raspberry gelee cubes, dollops of cream, and strawberry sorbet.

The Vanilla Panna Cotta with Macerated Fruit features what’s in season. A sesame tuille adds a bit of an Asian touch to this otherwise classic Italian dessert.

The most tart of the lot, the Passion Fruit Brulee, is a slice of passion fruit mouse, topped with crumbled shortbread for texture, with a quenelle of chocolate on the side of the plate to cut from the sourness of the mouse.

Williams plans to change menus to use most of what’s seasonal sp it will be exciting to see what the Fireplace will offer next as it carves its new niche in Manila's highly competitive steak scene.