They say the third time’s always a charm. I must say I agree. Because on my third trip to South Korea, the charm that caught me was a city in the western part of the country, Jeonju.
The easing of pandemic restrictions has inevitably led to revenge travel. So much so that thousands of Filipinos are on the lookout for that much coveted visa appointment at the Korean Embassy. Ask where most would go, fashion capital and skincare mecca Seoul would probably be the most common answer.
Sure, the Seoul vibe never fails to amaze.
Who wouldn’t be in awe while looking up at the majestic Namsan Tower or spend hours trying to get the perfect angle with the curves of the Dongdaemun Design Plaza in the background? And for those who love strolling, Myeongdong’s cheap thrills, colorful and flavorful street food and even socks which we normally take for granted, all just seem to stand out, silently screaming for you to buy them!
But South Korea is not just all about the wonders of Seoul. For those wanting a more serene escape and connection with the nation’s roots, Jeonju City is definitely a place worth visiting.
That’s exactly what this group of K-drama fans in the ABS-CBN newsroom did!
Where is it?
Jeonju City is around two hours away by a high-speed train, south of Seoul.
The ride will not be boring as the entire trip provides panoramic views of different parts of South Korea, shifting from industrial, agricultural and even blank spaces which are surprisingly refreshing to the eyes.
While a high-speed train may sound intimidating, the price is actually quite affordable. A round trip ticket from Seoul costs less than P3,000, similar to a plane ticket from Manila to just about any domestic destination.
Upon arriving in Jeonju Station, you’ll be greeted by an enormous space which pretty much gives you an idea of how walkable the entire city is. If walking isn’t for you, it isn’t hard to get around because while there are no subways, taxis and buses are plentiful throughout Jeonju.
Like other parts of South Korea, getting around should be much of a problem as long as you have an internet connection and a map on your smartphone.
Much like other parts of Korea, a first timer wouldn’t run out of reasons to visit the capital of the North Jeolla Province. From food, history and pop culture, Jeonju embodies the perfect juxtaposition of old and new.
Korea’s food hub
Jeonju is a place that a person can easily fall in love with especially once they’ve tried local food. This is after all is the main attraction in any place a tourist would visit.
The city is known to be the home of Korea’s bibimpap, a delicacy also widely enjoyed by Filipinos because “bap” is, after all, rice. The term “bibim” means mixed, hence, rice mixed with only the tastiest sauces, meat and vegetables topped with fried egg.
The famous Jeonju Bibimpap is a must try in any restaurants serving it. Sweet and savory flavors are given different textures from the mix of vegetables, meat and rice.
In one of the restaurants we visited, ordering this most renowned and loved dish from Jeonju comes with different side dishes like kimchi, radish, macaroni salad, soup as well as an appetizer which they call beondegi or steamed silkworm pupae whose juice bursts in the mouth once bit and leaves a nutty, fishy taste on the palate (I admit, it’s not for everyone).
The serving is not too big. It seems they’ve perfected the portions of the food they serve to leave some room for dessert.
While I’ve always thought of choco pie to be something very Filipino, Korean’s also have this to boast both as a dessert and as an edible souvenir for family and friends back home.
Tourists leaving Jeonju carry with them boxes of these choco pies that are a mix of sweet chocolate, jam and cream.
Tourists leaving Jeonju carry with them boxes of these choco pies that are a mix of sweet chocolate, jam and cream.
Tourists leaving Jeonju carry with them boxes of these choco pies that are a mix of sweet chocolate, jam and cream.
Unlike the choco pies at home, Jeonju’s version is bigger. Imagine the palm of your hands with a chocolate cake sandwich filled with a dollop of cream, jam and chopped walnuts all held together by a chocolate shell. One bite is a burst of different sensations; creamy, sweet, fruity with a satisfying crunch in between. Paying 2,500 Korean won (over P100) for one piece of this treat is something you wouldn’t mind doing.
A quick weekend trip to Jeonju is never complete without a visit to the Nambu night market. Like many attractions around the world, it was also forced to cease operations because of the COVID-19 pandemic. But the manageable COVID-19 situation has allowed it to wake from its slumber and serve high-quality street food and handicrafts, yet again.
Pro tip: snacking on oysters, blood sausages and other barbecued meat is most satisfying if paired with a kettle of makgeolli or rice wine.
But like all days, one must come to an end. And since you’re already in a historic district, it seems unforgiveable to retire in a hotel.
Where to stay
When traveling, we always opt for hotels or guesthouses whose rooms are well equipped with different facilities. Jeonju definitely has that. But why opt for modern when you have the option to experience traditional Korean abodes by sleeping in iconic hanoks?
The Jeonju Hanok Village comprises not only stalls, shops and museums. It also has guest houses that can be rented for the ultimate cultural immersion. It’s important to note though, the hanok village highly regards intimacy and quiet.
A few minutes of walking around the narrow cobblestone streets with only the wind ringing in your ear is already, by itself, a perfect escape. It’s not hard for a person, especially one coming from a busy city, to get enchanted by the sight around the community.
A 360 degree turn is all you need to do to bask in the beauty of a traditional Korean home; heated wooden floors, sliding doors with intricate carvings and outside, rustling trees as well as the unique curved rooftops all make staying in a hanok a perfect decision.
Be prepared to sleep on the floor though. If this is something new to you, definitely give it a go.
While prices may vary per guesthouse, they are all within the level of highly affordable. Besides, what’s a couple thousands of pesos for an experience to tick off the bucket list?
Historical city
Jeonju City offers the best of Korean culture from food, architecture, history and experiences.
Admittedly, a one-night stay in the city isn’t enough to experience all of it. An entire day can be spent within the hanok village alone because aside from marveling at old-fashioned guest houses, there’s also the Gyeonggijeon palace and the Jeongdong Cathedral which, aside from their history, are also great photo spots.
For a minimal fee, guests can access a massive compound lined with picturesque trees and structures, some parts even appearing in movies. Inside the palace grounds, one can find the Royal Portrait Museum which preserves different portraits of the Joseon Dynasty.
To top off the cultural immersion, a pictorial in different areas of the donning the hanbok or traditional Korean clothing is a must-try. The outfits are perfect for a backdrop of wood and stone arches, fences and just about everything erected in the palace grounds.
First timers in Jeonju must try wearing the traditional hanbok while walking around the well-preserved hanoks and parks for the full Korean cultural immersion.
First timers in Jeonju must try wearing the traditional hanbok while walking around the well-preserved hanoks and parks for the full Korean cultural immersion.
First timers in Jeonju must try wearing the traditional hanbok while walking around the well-preserved hanoks and parks for the full Korean cultural immersion.
Aside from hanboks, tourists can also travel back to the early 1900s by wearing aesthetic retro English outfits from a full coat and tie, to long dresses accentuated with over-the-top fascinators.
Across the palace grounds is the Jeongdon Cathedral which is a rarely missed spot by first-timers.
The main cathedral in the compound is said to be the oldest remaining modern Western-style building in the region. Its red bricks give it a personality so strong; it's hard to resist taking a photo.
A girl gets her photo taken in front of the Jeongdon Cathedral.
During winter, trees right next to the cathedral stand naked which add even more wonder to the eyes.
K-drama haven
A trip to South Korea is never complete without a photo referenced from at least one K-drama series.
While one would have to scour different parts of Seoul for this, the ultimate K-drama fan can recreate iconic photos from so many different shows right within Jeonju.
For one, Mr. Sunshine! The series, known for its patriotic message, had scenes which were actually shot in Jeonju. Perhaps the most notable is the Hagindang residence, one of the oldest houses in Jeonju.
Our Beloved Summer is also another series that was widely shot in the city. The Hyundae Super, which in real life is an actual store, appears in episode three. While the vending machine is longer part of the store’s façade, it’s still hard to miss that bike from the series making it an irresistible photo spot.
Love in the Moonlight, top billed by Park Bo-gum, also featured the Gyeonggijeon shrine.
Jeonju City is undoubtedly a sought after location of many Korean drama series. Even the currently streaming series Our Blooming Youth features the Gyeonggijeon and Confucian School.
While Reply 1988 may not have been shot in Jeonju, there’s still a Retro Museum which, for a good couple of hours, can take you back in time. From old Korean classrooms, homes, stores, arcades,VHS players discos, you name it, the museum was able to collect and curate a lot of things we no longer see. And the best thing – visitors are free to touch and experience them again.
Sections of the museum take visitors back in time to old Korean classrooms as well as shoe closets with old footwear.
Sections of the museum take visitors back in time to old Korean classrooms as well as shoe closets with old footwear.
Most parts are so retro that the place seems like a set that popped out right from an old movie. It brings so much nostalgia that even those who didn’t grow up in Korea (like us) are still able to relate and day dream of our own experiences while walking around.
For our group of K-drama fans, one of the highlights of this rather short trip to Jeonju was visiting two locations featured in 2521.
First, Na-Hee Do’s house.
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A house in Jeonju, now known by many as Na Hee-Do’s house after the series '2521,' has become a frequently visited part of the city.
Who wouldn’t want to see this in real life, when a lot of sequences in the series were actually shot in and out of it. Except for the color, everything is just the way it was. The pale bricks, while far from its red color in the show, still did not disappoint.
Looking around it, visitors cannot help but retrace some of Na Hee-Do and Baek Yi-Jin’s steps, particularly when he delivered the newspapers in the morning.
Several kilometers away from Na-Hee Do’s house is the iconic Hanbyukgul tunnel. Nee I say more of why this is important to the likes of us?
Also a big part of 2521, the Hanbyugkul tunnel has gained popularity with visitors recreating scenes from the Korean drama series.
Also a big part of 2521, the Hanbyugkul tunnel has gained popularity with visitors recreating scenes from the Korean drama series.
Also a big part of 2521, the Hanbyugkul tunnel has gained popularity with visitors recreating scenes from the Korean drama series.
Also a big part of 2521, the Hanbyugkul tunnel has gained popularity with visitors recreating scenes from the Korean drama series.
The tunnel was created for trains during the Japanese occupation. But now it’s a perfect spot for taking photos. With the Jeonjuchun river just a couple of meters away from it, it’s all the more romantic, intimate, and heartbreaking all at the same time especially since while you’re there, your mind can’t help but play snippets of 2521.
One night is definitely not enough to explore most of Jeonju.
Thanks to K-drama, we are able to put another place on our list of things we would love going back to.
For a city that is able to preserve the past but still live in the present with such ease, visitors are given the idea of just how much respect its people have for both the young and old – definitely something ideal a lot of us would want to be part of.
For more news and features on K-pop, K-drama, and K-stars, visit the Hallyu Corner microsite.