Best of bespoke: dissecting five of the tailoring shops that matter 2
Photograph by The Lazy Artist Gallery and Malcolm Garret on Pexels
Style

Best of bespoke: dissecting five of the tailoring shops that matter

It's all in the details, and when it comes to bespoke suits, it's the details distinguish one tailoring house from another
Giancarla Espinosa-Aritao | Jul 03 2019

VAN LAACK

Hennes Weisweiler Allee 25 41179 M├Ânchengladbach, Germany
Tel. +49 (0) 2161 357 357
vanlaack.com
Best of bespoke: dissecting five of the tailoring shops that matter 3

This German brand was established by Heinrich van Laack to introduce a new standard for luxury shirts. Its most notable innovation is the three-hole button. While still primarily known as a shirtmaker, van Laack has expanded its repertoire to include suits.

van Laack suits have gained a following because they’re made using Italian fabric, which offers a range of textures and designs. Add to that the precision of German tailoring. There is nothing superfluous about a van Laack suit—the silhouettes are slim, the lapels are classically wide, and the shoulders softly structured. The style that emerges is crisp and modern. van Laack is found in over 50 countries. In 2006, it opened a production and distribution center in Vietnam, which ensured its foothold in Asia.

 

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ORAZIO LUCIANO

Orazio Luciano ShowroomP. Sannicandro, 32 80146, Naples, Italy
Tel. +39 081 255 2511
orazioluciano.com/
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For 20 years, Orazio Luciano of La Vera Sartoria Napoletana was a master tailor before he carved a name for himself. Initially, he found success in Asia before venturing west to the United States. Following the Italian traditions, Orazio Luciano suits focus on fit. The suit drapes the body perfectly, the collars stay in place with just the right grip around the neck, and the armholes are not cut too high for better movement. Buttons are handsewn, the buttonholes are hand stitched. Orazio Luciano is available in Europe and the United States, and visits Hong Kong twice a year for fittings and orders. In 2014, the tailoring house’s bespoke services will also be available in the Philippines.

 

KITON

Kiton Headquarters Viale delle Industrie 80022 Arzano, Naples, Italy
Tel. +39 081 585 5272
kiton.it
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Long and sleek: these are the words that often describe a Kiton suit. The trousers are never baggy and the jackets are cut to skim the body naturally. Sleeves are tapered. The effect is a classic, streamlined silhouette.

The mastery of Kiton’s workmanship reveals itself in the way the sleeve appears to be in unison with the shoulder. There is some rippling that occurs, a sartorial detail indicative of Neapolitan tailoring. The shoulders are rounded, with just the right amount of padding to give the coat structure. Kiton has boutiques in Italy, France, England, Germany, Russia, Ukraine, the United States, China, South Korea, Japan, Azerbaijan, Uzbekistan, Saudi Arabia, UAE, and Singapore.

 

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

Ermenegildo Zegna Showroon +39 Via Savona 56/a 20144 Milan, Italy
Tel. +39 02 422091
zegna.com
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An Ermenegildo Zegna suit sticks close to the Neapolitan style of tailoring, the most striking feature of which is the shoulder placed high and following the natural line of the body. Collars, too, are high and tight. In contrast, the lapels are soft.

Since Ermenegildo Zegna is recognized as one of the leading buyers of merino wool, it is one of the few houses that have a hand in the production of its materials. It has taken steps to ensure that standards are met and innovation implemented. Ermenegildo Zegna has built a following based largely on the quality of its fabric. Ermenegildo Zegna is widely available all over the world, with bespoke tailoring services also offered in Manila.

 

ASCOT CHANG

Ascot Chang Head Office B520, Focal Industrial Centre 21 Man Lok Street, Hunghom, Kowloon, Hong Kong
Tel. +852 2364 4384
ascotchang.com
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Even the best tailoring techniques fall by the wayside if the right material isn’t used. At Ascot Chang, there are more 3,000 fabrics from the most renowned mills in the world, like Loro Piana, Ermenegildo Zegna, and Alumo. Ascot Chang fabrics are 100s two-ply or better.

Suits are handmade in the Hong Kong workshop, and no detail is spared: buttons are mother-of-pearl and sewing threads are core-spun. Even the needle is chosen to provide the finest point possible. This attention to detail results in suits that last for years. Ascot Chang has shops in the United States, Hong Kong, China, and the Philippines.

 

How to order a bespoke suit

Best of bespoke: dissecting five of the tailoring shops that matter 8
Photo courtesy of Ascot Chang’s facebook page.

Ascot Chang

  • S297 Mezzanine Level, Makati Shangri-La Hotel, Ayala Avenue, Makati City | Tel. +623 813 5001
  • Rustan’s Makati, Ayala Center, Ayala Avenue, Makati City | Tel. +632 813 3739
  • Rustan’s Shangri-la Plaza Mall, EDSA cor. Shaw Boulevard, Mandaluyong City

 

van Laack

  • Ground Level, Greenbelt 5, Legazpi Street, Ayala Center, Makati City | Tel. +632 728 6468

 

Ermenegildo Zegna

  • Newport Mall, Resorts World Manila | Tel. +632 239 1211
  • Greenbelt 4, Ayala Center, Ayala Avenue, Makati City | Tel. +632 584 7000
  • 1/F, Rustan’s Makati, Ayala Center, Makati City | Tel. +632 893 2113

 

Kiton

 

Orazio Luciano

  • P. Sannicandro, 32 80146, Naples, Italy | Tel. +39 081 255 2511
  • The Armoury, 307 Pedder St., Central, Hong Kong

 

Photographs by Ian Casta├▒ares

This story originally appeared on Vault Magazine Issue 12 No 4 2013.