S Kitchen at Sheraton Manila Hotel uses local ingredients and traditional techniques to present elevated Pinoy fare, creating such dishes as Bicol Express Pasta by Executive Chef Kiko Santiago.
Food & Drink Restaurants

A taste of food to come

Fads may come and go, but according to industry insiders, these 10 trends are poised to dominate (hopefully) the dining scene in 2019 and beyond
Marilen Fontanilla | Jan 31 2019

A lot of fearless forecasts have been going around, predicting what new dishes and drinks we will be obsessing about this new year. But rather than getting into the standard trope of “what’s hot and what’s not,” we delved a bit deeper. Thanks to insights from leading chefs, restaurateurs, and industry insiders, we’ve listed 10 compelling trends we believe are guiding the country’s food landscape in interesting and sustainable directions:

1. In search of lesser known produce

The spotlight is now on vegetables that have often been overlooked.

“I am keen to incorporate little known vegetables, particularly locally grown ones, into my recipes. Raising awareness about these vegetables creates a larger market for them and encourages farmers to keep growing them. This helps us preserve our food culture and patrimony while increasing economic growth in rural areas,” says Chef Waya Araos-Wijangco of Gourmet Gypsy Art Café.

Gourmet Gypsy’s Roasted Gourmet Salad is an example of how Chef Waya incorporates lesser known products such as sabsadikong, padpadol, radish fruits, heirloom tomatoes, singkamas pods, takip-kuhol.

 

2. Finding beauty in the “ugly”

Restaurateurs are finding ways to enhance ingredients and create dishes from “ugly” produce. Food writer, consultant, and cookbook author Angelo Comsti agrees that this is something the agricultural community will benefit from. He explains that “items which people typically ignore and farmers throw out, misshapen vegetables, are typically set aside, but restaurateurs are now more open to using ‘ugly’ produce.”

Amy Besa explains how her husband, Chef Romy Dorotan, does it at their restaurant Purple Yam Malate. “The most exciting ingredients (Romy) found in seafood markets were our local mixed shells, which do not get much attention from other chefs and restaurants. Many shells like the kuhol and the pilipit require you to suck on the shell to pull the tiny sliver of meat out,” she shares. “It may be unglamorous at the table but the rewards of discovering unknown flavors of our seas and oceans are quite eye opening.”

Amy narrates how the mixed shells (the smaller they are, the more flavorful) can yield savory broths. “It can transform paellas into delicious showcases of the flavors of our terraces and seas when paired with our Cordillera heirloom rice varieties,” she explains.

Purple Yam’s conch with dumplings made from its meat and eaten with a savory broth from the shells.
Miniature shells and crabs with Cordillera heirloom rice.
Mixed shells include baby geoduck (pronounced gooey-duck, the ones with pink tips), tiny Manila clams, razor clams (long narrow shells), and pilipit.

 

3. And Philippine cuisine is still going strong

There’s no stopping the newfound appreciation for our cuisine, as it finds its way from casual dining restaurants to hotel outlets. And just as segmented specialties popularized Japanese cuisine, Filipino fare is spreading its culinary wings with regional establishments like Asiong’s in Cavite and Forest City in Laguna, to modern concepts of Agimat, and even a Filipino high tea offering at Hyatt Regency’s (formerly Hyatt City of Dreams) Lounge.

“I feel 2019 is the year of the Filipino cuisine in the Philippines. I know this sounds odd, but the masses will regain a newfound pride of our beloved food,” says restaurant consultant Cyrus Cruz.

Agimat Foraging Bar & Kitchen introduces out-of-the-ordinary local ingredients to its food and drinks menu. Photograph from @agimatbar on Instagram
The newly opened S Kitchen at Sheraton Manila Hotel uses local ingredients and traditional techniques to present elevated Pinoy fare, creating such dishes as Bicol Express Pasta by Sheraton Manila’s Executive Chef Kiko Santiago, inspired by his Bicolano roots.
Hyatt Regency’s High Tea at the Lounge offers Filipino savories and pastries like salted egg cheese tart, corned beef puto, sisig shooter, ensalada on crispy pops and menudo pandesal, mango mousse layered with calamansi jam, buko pandan tart, brazo de Mercedes, banana and jackfruit in crispy wrap and coconut macaroons. Photograph from @hyattregencymanilacod on Instagram

 

4. Healthy vibes

With people increasingly informed about healthy eating, it is no wonder that establishments are offering fresh, flavorful options that cater to diners’ varying diets. “People will eat cleaner and fresher whole foods. More grain-centered dishes in restaurants and quick ready-to-eat plates with more protein, low carb, non-fast food-type foods,” Cyrus muses.

Keto pita, keto pizza crust, and keto bagels at Gourmet Gypsy.

Chef Waya adds, “I think that more than a craze, eating low-carb and low sugar is here to stay. Gourmet Gypsy has been a leader in providing delicious and healthy meals, baked goods, and desserts made with almond and coconut flour and healthy sugar substitutes. We have also removed sugar and starches from most of our appetizers, salads, salad dressings, and entrees to make it easier for people to make real healthy food choices.”

 

5. Food preservation to fight food waste

In light of increasing reports of produce going to waste, a number of chefs have sought to counteract this with inventive ways to minimize food waste and spoilage. “I have been going around the country meeting farmers, and food waste is such a huge issue. I think we need to be more proactive in dealing with this problem and extending the shelf life of produce through pickling and jamming (which) can be part of the solution,” shares Chef Waya.

All kinds of fruits and vegetables can be pickled. Photograph by Paulo Valenzuela for FOOD Magazine

 

6. A Bicolano dish finds the spotlight

Angelo Comsti points to the favorite stewed taro leaves as the next must-try Filipino dish that both locals and foreigners will likely clamor for. Over the years, the classic laing has become a palette against which chef artists create interpretations of this Bicolano coconut dish. “It has been turned into a longganisa in Bicol and Margarita Forés has been cooking it in events abroad.”

At the popular Washington DC Filipino favorite Bad Saint, Chef Tom Cunanan marries braised kale and Chesapeake crab meat with the traditional coconut for a luxurious laing that is difficult to forget. Photograph by Joel Binamira
Chef Margarita Forés showcases the versatility of coconut and taro with the leaves immersed in the first press of coconut milk, shrimps, crisp shrimp heads, taro chips, fried leaves, and shrimp paste, served in a coconut shell. Photograph from @margaritafores on Instagram

 

7. Digital delivery

With humongous traffic and increasing gas prices, people think twice before leaving the house to dine out or buy takeout. Thankfully, delivery options have filled this need, becoming more convenient and immediate, especially with the rise of third-party delivery services such as Honestbee, Food Panda, Grab Food, and Lalamove. As long as the service fees remain reasonable, there’s no doubt this will continue to be a viable alternative, helping restaurants as well to extend the scope of their dining services.

Simplified ordering processes offered by third-party delivery services has made dining at home or at work a preferred option. Photograph from @honestbeeph on Instagram

 

8. Premium French

Are French wines getting a resurgence with Filipino wine aficionados? The past years have shown that there is still much love for beloved Bordeauxs, especially if there are more affordable alternatives to premiere growths available. Sherwin Lao of Golden Wines shares, “I feel premium French wines like second labels of Medoc Grand Cru wines are getting more traction. Our Charmes de Kirwan and Les Fiefs de Lagrange, second labels of third growths Château Kirwan and Château Lagrange had record sales last year.”

Santi’s Delicatessen carries a range of Bordeaux wines such as Château Grand-Puy Lacoste, Château Ferriere, Château Olivier, Château Phélan Ségur, and Château La Dominique.
From Txanton, a small sampling of the range of Bordeaux wines available in the country.

 

9. Gin is still in

The past year may have been about discovering gins from around the world, but this year may just ignite more passion for homegrown small batch gins, infused with local botanicals and aromatics to make them wholly Filipino. This includes Crows Hand-Crafted Gin, Sirena Blue Pea Gin, and ARC Botanical Gin to start with, but we can definitely look forward to more inspired infusions in the year to come.

Sirena Blue Pea Gin by Destileria Barako is a small batch, hand-crafted gin from Malay, Aklan made with Negros sugarcane ethanol and organic blue pea. Photograph from @destileria.barako on Instagram

 

10. Destinations worth dining for

It has been a joy to see dining destinations flourish in previously overlooked spots such as Poblacion, Makati. Not only do these hubs offer diverse dining options, but also present more creative spaces without the restrictions of malls. “I hope more young and brave restaurateurs will continue to put up different food businesses that veer away from malls and turn barangays into foodie destinations,” says Chef Jam Melchor of Yes Plate and the Slow Food Youth Network Philippines. Indeed, it would be wonderful to see more community-centered food destinations become the new normal, not just near business hubs like Makati and Ortigas, but in neighborhoods all around the country.

Aleva coffe from Dulo MNL is made of cayenne pepper, chocolate, espresso, and a shot of milk. Photograph from Chris Clemente

In the end, the Philippines’ food scene is dynamic and ever evolving. While the above 10 trends are our take on what 2019 has in store, let’s also take these with a grain of salt. More surprises await as long as chefs and restaurateurs are willing to cook beyond their comfort zones.